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I have a 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis. I had smoke coming from the driver’s side rear tire. I took it to a shop they said it was the wheel bearing. They replaced it on March 12, 2018. on Friday, April 20, 2018, it did it again. now they are saying I need a whole new rear end. Would it not be the bearing again?
1988 Chevrolet s10 pickup v6 2.8- engine turns over but won’t start. Tried grounding the distributor cable and no spark, but also not delivering any fuel. I couldn’t think of anything else that might control both spark and fuel, so I changed the ecm. Also has brand new ignition coil, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor, ignition module, and IAC valve.It does occasionally start and runs fine, but rarely.
VW Jetta MK4 1.8T AGU engine.
Hi there, a quick electrical question regarding the 12v switched power labeled 75x above the foot pedal. The nut holding the bracket for the relays is supposed to be a negative. Then the wiring labeled 75x is supposed to be a switched 12v so when the ignition is turned on then only it supplies 12v. My problem is I have no ground from the nut that holds the relays bracket in place like normal people do and also my 75x has constant power and when the ignition is turned it cuts the power. Its working in reverse. I checked all the fuses and nothing is blown.
My 89 chevy caprice brougham has a lot of hesitation while idling and sometimes cuts off. It also, sometimes cuts of when I come a stop at a light . When I’m not accelerating I feel a lot hesitation as well. What could be the issue? Throttle body, 5.0. I have already change the distributor, O2 sensor, throttle position sensor, spark plugs, fuel filter
2000 dodge Dakota 4.7 motor. Drive everyday 5 miles to and from work never an issue. Today I drove about 30 miles and started hearing engine noise. When I can to a stop check gauge light came on and oil pressure has dropped to 0 and then right back up when rpms went up. Did oil change 400 miles ago 5w-30 oil mileage and fram oil filter.
I just bought a 2006 Ford Mustang 4.0 (basic). I can feel every bump in the road and wonder what can be done to improve the suspension. I’ve been doing some research and asked questions regarding coilovers, struts, shock absorbers, and springs. I’m still not sure what combination of items I need. The only thing I know for sure is that I would like OEM parts if possible to bring to a mechanic to replace all the old parts (if neccesary). And is there an all-in-one package that is not super expensive?
Whereabouts in the car is the ‘Brakelight Switch’ located on my 2011 Audi TT Mk2 2.0 Tdi?
Note: It’s NOT in front of the brake pedal like it used to be on the Mk1 Audi TT. :0(
I have an EPS Light & Glowplugs light ‘flashing’ on the dashboard, but my brake lights still work okay at the rear, but I’ve been told this is usually a ‘brakelight switch’ fault.
Any idea where it’s located, or anything else I could check? Thanks
I have a Mercedes E500 2003 w211 with airmatic; when parked overnight the rear suspension on the driver side sags, but a few minutes after starting the engine, this rear suspension goes back to normal. However, when the height of the car is raised (it’s one of the feature of the car), this rear suspension never sags (even with the main battery located in the trunk removed), any thoughts on what could have cause this rear suspension from sagging overnight is appreciated.