Hi, I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Quad cab with a 5.7l Hemi and a 9.25″ rear end. I recently replaced the pinion seal. Before I removed the pinion nut marked its orientation. When I did remove the nut I noticed it was’t too tight and hardly required the breaker bar. I put it back together and returned the nut to its original location. I then drove the truck 100 miles with no trouble and parked it. I have since purchase a SRM and learned about preloading the bearing by torquing the pinion nut to 210 ft lbs. There is no way I did that. I plan on going back under this weekend and using the torque require to turn the flange method of setting the torque at the nut. Did that 100 miles damage the rear end or the crush spacer? Do I really need a new nut per the manual? Why was the nut so loose to begin with? Where did I go wrong? Thanks
I have a 2009 jaguar xf supercharged i bought with flood damage with the intention to replace electronics in it (ECM, BCM, etc.) The car didnt have any power to it.( nothing on odometer or any dinging noise like usual) The key was stuck in the slot and i had to disassemble it to get it out. when i put a battery on it the jaguar screen was blinking the jaguar logo every 5 secs. The front windows and sunroof worked. the door locks work. the odometer illuminates when the light switch is turned on and it dings. the start button is flashing I have replaced the BCM ( front interior fuse box), trunk fuse box, and ECU. They were all from different XF superhargeds now the windows dont work ( nor the sunroof). I have come to a conclusion that I think the all the BCMs (fuse boxes) and the ECM need to all be programmed to the cars VIN. or could i just find another wrecked XF supercharged and use the ECM and BCMs from it and it would work? do i need to replace the key slot and fob or is it just stuck because the BCM cant control it? Just thought id get someone elses view on this that has better technical experience.
Hello. I have another question on my 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.7. I’ve replaced the coil that was giving me a code, and it seems to be running a lot better now. I still have what I’ll describe as a “dead spot” sometimes when I accelerate. I’m thinking I’ll do the Throttle Position Sensor next. I can find nothing online about this particular model. Could you tell me where I might find the TPS? Thank you.
I’m a Toyota mechanic. A friend has a 2010 535i GT (F07). The Rear Suspension Air Pump works and has pressure (blows air) (short black air line across the pump), however, the leveling valve, the one who has the two air lines (blue and red) for the two rear air spring bags, does NOT blow any air? Any ideas?
i have a 2003 volkswagan bora 1.9 90bhp model remaped to 130 the problem i have is when i start her it takes about a min or so to respond to the acleralator pedel but works fine after that just take a min or so to tick over is this normal only happons if she sitting for a while
My car ( Hyundai Sonata 2006 2.4l ), makes noise when it drives over any Bump, from the passenger side only, I removed the wheel today and took a picture of it, at first I thought its the upper control arm, but then after removing the wheel I think its the suspension itself, since I saw a crack at the upper side rubber of the suspension, 1- https://ibb.co/k4b24n 2- upper control arm looks fine to me! maybe it’s not! I don’t know https://ibb.co/fNuiAS
I have a 2006 chevy cobalt 2.2..had 1133 code and p0340 code(o2 sensor and camshaft sensor)replaced the o2 and this car does not have a cam sensor..I replaced the crankshaft sensor..cleared codes and it came right back..put a new ICM on and cleared codes,drove for 100 miles and had no problem..34 mpg no hesitations..shut car off and 1133 went away but 0340 code still there..any suggestions?